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What a vintage Gucci, Saint Laurent or Hermès watch costs

In our selection a vintage watch today costs between 225 and 1045 euros, with a median of 325. The name on the dial matters less than it seems: what moves the price is the model, the state of the gold plating, the bracelet, and whether box and papers are there. Two examples of the same reference can sit two hundred euros apart, and the reason is almost always visible in the photographs.

Today's prices, by maison

These are the pieces available right now, not market estimates. The list updates itself as the catalogue changes.

  • Gucci — 29 pieces, from € 225 to € 575, median € 330
  • Hermès — 9 pieces, from € 475 to € 1,045, median € 615
  • Longines — 3 pieces, from € 395 to € 570, median € 570
  • Omega — 1 piece, € 710
  • Saint Laurent — 27 pieces, from € 235 to € 395, median € 285

Prices include VAT. Shipping is shown before the order is completed.

What really moves the price

In order of weight, as we see it buying and reselling these watches.

  • The model. This is the strongest variable: some references were made in far smaller numbers, and it shows in the buying price before it shows in the selling price.
  • The gold plating. On plated cases, wear cannot be repaired: replating erases the original finish and often the markings on the caseback. A piece with intact gilding is worth noticeably more, and rightly so.
  • The bracelet. Original or replaced, complete or shortened. A rigid bangle in an unusual size narrows the group of people who can wear it, and that weighs on the price.
  • Box and papers. Of 69 available pieces, 24 come with the box and 14 with box and papers together; 15 come with neither.
  • Condition. It counts, but less than the model: in today's selection the gap in median price between «excellent» and «good condition» is a few tens of euros.

All available watches

United States, 1925: a white gold wristwatch at thirty dollars, three dollars down and a dollar a week. Buying a watch was a decision, not an impulse.
United States, 1925: a white gold wristwatch at thirty dollars, three dollars down and a dollar a week. Buying a watch was a decision, not an impulse.Wikimedia Commons · public domain

Why two identical pieces are not priced alike

We often have the same reference in several examples, and the prices do not match. That is not a contradiction: it is the difference between a caseback still crisp and one worn smooth, between an original bracelet and a replacement, between a box present and a box missing.

That is why every listing describes condition on a scale and, when there is something specific to say, says it: a scratch on the bezel, a mark on the strap, plating worn at one point. The price is read together with those lines, not on its own.

When a low price should give you pause

  • A redone dial presented as original. It shows in the fonts and in printing that looks too clean for the age of the case.
  • A generic bracelet described as original. Replacement links are no longer produced: new ones differ in pattern and finish.
  • «Serviced» that only means a new battery. They are two different things, and should be stated separately.
  • No photograph of the caseback and the clasp. Those are the two places where almost everything can be read.

See the watches from the lowest price

Quick answers

What does an original vintage Gucci watch cost?

In our selection vintage Gucci watches run from 225 to 575 euros, with a median of 330. The spread depends on the reference, the state of the plating and whether box and papers are present.

Why does a Hermès cost more than a Gucci?

In today's selection Hermès pieces sit between 475 and 1045 euros, against a median of 330 for Gucci. Smaller production of these models and steady demand for references such as the Kelly and the Clipper both weigh on it.

Do prices include VAT?

Yes. The prices shown include VAT, and there are no added costs at checkout beyond shipping, which is shown before the order is completed.

Is gold plating worth it, or is steel the safer choice?

It depends on how much the watch will be worn. Steel takes daily use with almost no consequence; gold plating is beautiful but wears at the edges and on the caseback, and cannot be restored without losing originality. For an everyday watch, steel is the calmer choice.

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