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How to choose

Guide

What customers ask before buying: sizing, authenticity, prices. Short answers first, the detail below.

Sizing

Vintage women's watch for a small wrist: how to choose the size

The diameter matters less than it seems. What decides whether a watch sits well is the bracelet — and you can check it before buying.

Prices

What a vintage Gucci, Saint Laurent or Hermès watch costs

Real prices from our selection and, more to the point, what moves them: model, plating, bracelet, box and papers.

Gifts

A vintage watch as a gift: birthdays, Christmas, a year worth remembering

How to choose a watch for someone else: the right year, the size when you do not know it, and how far ahead to order.

Pairs

The same watch in two sizes: the paired gift that works

The same model in a men's and a women's size. Why it works better than two watches picked separately, and which pairs we have now.

Models

Gucci 1500L, 1900L, 1400L: how to tell them apart and which to choose

Four families that look alike in photographs and behave differently on the wrist. The real difference is not the shape: it is the bracelet.

Care

Gold-plated vintage watch: how it wears and how to make it last

Plating cannot be repaired: once it is worn through, it stays that way. What actually ruins it, and what does not matter at all.

Care

Leather strap: how to make it last and when to replace it

The strap is the one part of a watch meant to wear out. What actually kills it, and why the original should be kept even once it is no longer worn.

Value

What holds the value of a vintage watch

Original bracelet, intact plating, box and papers, a dial never redone. Four things — and between examples of the same model they can be worth hundreds of euros.

Models

Vintage Saint Laurent: the models and how to tell them apart

A signature on the bezel, engraved Roman numerals, bracelets that can be shortened. What to look for, and how Saint Laurent differs from Gucci.

Listings

How to read a listing: what our words mean

«Gold plate» is not «gold», a «rigid bangle» cannot be tightened, «crocodile-stamped» is not crocodile. The full vocabulary, stated plainly.

History

Gucci and watches: a Florentine story made in Switzerland

Why a Gucci watch says «Swiss Made», who actually produced them, and how to recognise the references you meet most often.

History

Yves Saint Laurent on the wrist: the story of vintage YSL watches

A fashion house with no manufacture, a Japanese producer and a monogram in place of the hours. What you actually find on the caseback.

History

Hermès and watches: a saddlery that built itself a Swiss factory

Why Hermès watches are Swiss without being licensed, where the padlock, the letter H and the screwed bezel come from, and what cannot be dated.

History

Longines: the only one of ours that can tell you the exact year

Why Longines is a different case from Gucci, Hermès and Saint Laurent, how to have the archives tell you what year your watch was born, and what changed in 1983.

Models

Cocktail watch and dress watch: two different ideas of an evening watch

In listings the two names are used as synonyms, and they are not. Where they come from, how to tell them apart on a card, and why they are back in fashion.

Care

Quartz or manual wind: what changes for the person wearing it

It is not a question of prestige but of habits. What each one asks of you, and the risk of vintage quartz that is almost never mentioned.