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Guide · Models
How to choose

Vintage Saint Laurent: the models and how to tell them apart

The first thing you recognise is the bezel: engraved Roman numerals and the «Yves Saint Laurent» signature running round the rim. It appears on the 31 mm 4620 family and on the 24 mm 2200, which are the same design in two sizes. But the more important practical difference concerns the wrist: while nearly every Gucci of these years sits on a rigid bangle, Saint Laurent pieces are almost always on a link bracelet — which can be shortened. If a bangle has never fitted you, this is where to look.

The families in the catalogue now

The list updates itself and shows only what is available right now.

  • Octagonal — 7 pieces, octagonal · 23–28 mm · link bracelet · € 235 – € 395
  • Classique — 5 pieces, round · 24–30 mm · link bracelet · € 260 – € 285
  • Roman — 4 pieces, round · 24–31 mm · link bracelet · € 265 – € 300
  • 4620 — 3 pieces, round · 31 mm · link bracelet · € 285 – € 365
  • Rettangolare — 2 pieces, rectangular · 15–20 mm · 1 on rigid bangle, 1 on link bracelet · € 285 – € 375
  • Rotondo — 2 pieces, round · 24–32 mm · link bracelet · € 260 – € 285
  • 2200 — 1 piece, round · 24 mm · link bracelet · € 265
  • 5421 — 1 piece, 25 mm · link bracelet · € 270
  • Bangle — 1 piece, rectangular · rigid bangle · € 325
  • Two-Toned — 1 piece, round · 24 mm · link bracelet · € 275

How to recognise them

  • 4620 — a round 31 mm case, bezel with engraved Roman numerals and the Yves Saint Laurent signature round the rim, link bracelet. The most recognisable model of the house, found both in steel and two-tone.
  • 2200 — the same design at 24 mm. The same signed bezel, the same layout, a size for a slim wrist.
  • Octagonal — an octagonal 28 mm case, two-tone, dial with blue Roman numerals. Some pieces have a bracelet with Y-shaped links, a house signature.
  • Classique — a round 30 mm case, a clean dial with the YSL monogram below twelve and the signature in script. No numerals on the bezel: the most restrained version.
  • Rettangolare — narrow cases, 15 and 18 mm, closer to jewellery than to a watch you read.
  • 5930 and 8031 — round, champagne dial with gilt baton indexes, five-link bracelet. The 5930 has a guilloché dial, with the concentric pattern engraved.
4620: bezel with engraved Roman numerals and the signature round the rim — the most recognisable mark of the house.
4620: bezel with engraved Roman numerals and the signature round the rim — the most recognisable mark of the house.
Octagonal: an eight-sided case, blue Roman numerals on the dial.
Octagonal: an eight-sided case, blue Roman numerals on the dial.

The difference from Gucci that counts on the wrist

In the most common Gucci families of these years — the 1500L and the 1900L — the bracelet is a rigid bangle: a circle of fixed size that cannot be tightened. At Saint Laurent the proportion is reversed: on nearly every piece the bracelet is a link bracelet, shortened by any watchmaker in ten minutes.

This is not a verdict on which house is better: a bangle sits differently and many people like it precisely for that. It is a practical fact worth knowing before choosing, especially if you are buying for someone else.

See all the available Saint Laurent watches

Steel or two-tone

Many models exist in both versions, and the choice is not only aesthetic. Steel takes daily wear with almost no consequence; the gilt parts are plated — never solid gold — and on the edges and the caseback they wear away with no way back. Our listings always say «gold plate» and never «gold»: it is a difference of substance.

Quick answers

Which is the most recognisable Saint Laurent model?

The 4620 family, a round 31 mm case with the bezel of engraved Roman numerals and the Yves Saint Laurent signature round the rim. The same design at 24 mm is the 2200 reference.

Can Saint Laurent bracelets be shortened?

Nearly all of them: they are link bracelets and any watchmaker can adjust them. In today's catalogue the models on a rigid bangle, which cannot be adjusted, are the exception — and the listings say so.

Are vintage Yves Saint Laurent watches gold?

No, the gilt parts are plating over steel. Our listings always say so in full. Intact plating is worth noticeably more than worn plating, because it cannot be restored.

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